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Someone on Facebook asked about concealing under eye circles, darkness and puffiness. I was going to film a short video on it but I thought I could actually get the information collected better for you here. So here goes!
Let's start with a listing few common issues women have with their under eye area, then I'll explain a few things you can try for each issue.
1. Puffiness
2. Darkness/Bluish cast
3. Fine lines
4. Make up creasing
5. Eye liner/mascara smudging
First off I want to say that your skin type greatly affects the types of products and techniques you use to correct any of these issues, much like your foundation/powder etc.
PUFFINESS-Puffiness is pretty much the only thing you can "treat" the same no matter what skin type you have however. The only thing I've found that actually worked as far as puffiness goes was applying a cold/cool compress of some sort to the area for at least 10 minutes each eye. You can use a small ice pack, frozen spoon covered by a light cloth or any other cold item. Just be sure you aren't leaving it on too long...frozen bags under your eyes would be far less attractive than the ones you start with. ;0) However, if the puffiness is not due to lack of sleep etc and is just naturally there all the time there's not really much you can do. You do, however, want to be VERY careful with any concealers, powders, products in general you place under your eye as to not accentuate the puffiness. Remember the rule: Light color highlights or brings forth a feature and dark color conceals or recedes a feature. This is not to say you should apply black under your eyes to recede the puffiness, that may cause you to resemble Captain Jack Sparrow. Ahem...unless that's the look you're going for. You do want to be very careful not to put something too light under your eyes is what I'm getting at. That will only enhance the puffiness.
DARKNESS/BLUISH CAST-There are many awesome products out there that will help with this concern. I struggle with a blue cast in the inner corners of my eye, near the bridge of my nose. You want to use something with a salmon and/or peach tint to it which will counteract the blue/dark colors. When choosing a concealer for under your eyes (or anywhere else for that matter) be sure it matches your skin tone exactly, is creamy and not thick. Here is a short list of salmon/peach concealers that work wonders!
Eve Pearl Salmon Concealer/treatment-http://www.evepearl.com/products/concealers-salmon/Dua_Salmon_Concealer_and_Treatment_Light_Medium.htm
*in my opinion Eve Pearl has the market on this type of product. It's not only an amazing concealer but actually treats the skin to improve it as it conceals. You can also just buy one color or the dual product so you can insure you have the right color. (you can mix the two to custom blend your color) They also come in a wide range of colors, are very creamy, non-drying and do not cause oiliness.
BONUS TIPS:http://www.evepearl.com/index.php?section=articles_zoom&TAG=ARTICLE17
Graftobian HD Creme Corrector - Soft Orange (Blue Neutralizer)- https://www.graftobianmakeup.com/commerce/product.jsp?prodId=1893&catId=
*this is also a good corrector. It's creamy (you don't want a thick, cakey concealer for under your eyes), non-drying, doesn't cause oiliness and has great coverage. The only "down" side to this one is it only comes in light/medium or medium/dark so it may be a little more difficult to find your proper shade.
Bobbi Brown tinted eye brightener, creamy concealer and brightening spot treatment corrector-This is quite a pricey product, however it works miracles. There is a short video on how to use her products here:http://www.bobbibrowncosmetics.com/learn/video.tmpl?cm_sp=NOV2010-_-Home-Menu-_-CorrectorVideo_FTout#
Benefit's Erase Paste-http://www.benefitcosmetics.com/Benefit-erase-paste/dp/B0011UNTJ2
*This is also a great product but it takes a little more "working with it" to get the proper coverage. It also only comes in three shades- fair, medium and deep. You may have to purchase two and mix them to get the right shade.
I know there are many more out there but these are the ones I would recommend trying first as they are the "top" in this area.
FINE LINES-The main key to reducing the appearance of fine lines is to be very careful not to accentuate them first of all. Products that havM a thick consistency will crease in fine lines and powders will settle into them causing them to be more visible. The way I diminish mine (as well as the darkness at the same time) is as follows:
1. Hydrate! I can't stress that enough. Even if you are A. young B. oily skinned by nature you still need to hydrate under your eyes. It's the only place on your face that doesn't have it's own means to do so. Think of it this way-have you ever seen a dessert that wasn't cracked and full of deep ruts? You don't want that under your eyes! Use whatever moisturizer you are comfortable with and suits your skin type. Do this at least 20 minutes before you apply anything else to give it time to soak into the skin. This goes for your whole face.
2. Prime those lines girls! And by that I mean use a primer. This will help fill in the fine lines so when you apply foundation/concealer/powder over them those products won't sink in and accentuate the lines. I've been using Loreal Studio Secrets face primer for about 2 weeks now and loving it but there is a hole myriad of face primers available. To name a few: Smashbox Photo Finish, Mac Mattifying Gel (for the oilier skins like Moi), Benefit's PoreFessional (fills in large pores etc), Bare Minerals Prime Time (spray), Eve Pearl's moisturizing primer and many many more. Be sure to pat the primer under your eyes, all the way up to your lashes and in the inner corners by your nose to create a smooth base for your other products to glide onto.
3. Before my foundation is applied I begin by correcting the blue cast by applying a THIN layer of my Graftobian soft orange corrector with my ring finger and patting it gently to blend it. Be sure to blend the edges as well. The heat from your fingers warms the product causing it to go on thinner and easier. Remember, we don't want thick and cakey under our eyes. It only makes the problems worse! A little goes a long way with this.
4. I apply my foundation as normal and powder my face in the areas I need powdering. (T-zone and under eye) You always want to set your under eye correctors/concealers with a powder or you will find it "missing" half way through the day and/or creased. BUT, remember that powders can settle into fine lines and accentuate them if too much is applied. So I use a Mac 224 (very fluffy eyeshadow blending brush) and dip into a super fine, silky powder like Make Up Forever's HD Powder or Mac Setting Powder and apply that under my eyes only and only enough so it doesn't feel "wet" or sticky anymore. Be sure to look up to the ceiling so the skin under your eyes is as smoothed out as possible before setting your concealer or you will end up setting the lines into your make up. Not fun.
The above routine also takes care of any creasing I may get under my eyes and stops the smearing of eyeliner/mascara as well. (for me) If you are still having a problem with your eyeliner/mascara smearing under your eyes it may be that you eye shape is such that you need to stay away from liners on the bottom lash line or mascara on your bottom lashes. Also, if you are going to line your lower waterline be sure to ALWAYS set it with a powder eyeshadow of the same shade. That will help it stay in place.
I hope this helps you! Please let me know if you have any other questions/concerns etc OR if you've tried something not listed here that has worked for you. I'm sure other readers would be very happy to try them out! God bless you all. Love,
Circle/Puff/Line Free Nicole (he he he)
